First Day's In A New City

After finally being released from the ever-so long confines of my prolonged quarantine, my overflow of excitement for freedom, food and fun were finally about to be achieved. The overwhelming stimulus of wanting to do, eat and experience everything at one time was a feeling I haven't felt since I went to Disneyland for the first time when I was 7 years old. My brain was racing from the previous night into the wee hours, trying to figure out how I would celebrate my first day in South Korea. Before I get too ahead of myself, there are some hurdles that a foreign exchange such as myself (or maybe even you) must clear before you can fully indulge in everything that South Korea has to offer. In the troubling times we live in to enter establishments such as restaurants, cafes, bars, clubs etc. (basically anywhere you are allowed to take of your mask to enjoy yourself freely) you are required to be fully vaccinated and show a government mandated QR code that gets scanned and verified by establishments before you are permitted to enter. In the case of us foreign students this a very tedious two-step process, allow me to explain...the first step is to visit your local health center (yes the same one that you take your initial two COVID tests). Armed with your passport, visa and a hard copy of your vaccination card your documents are verified and filed into the South Korea government database and you are issued a hard copy paper that verifies your general personal information, recognized vaccine doses, along with your unique number sequence that is your ID number that you are registered as in South Korea's COVID database. You might be thinking "I thought you said you are issued a QR code? I don't see anything about that so far."and to that I would answer, "This is where things get truly tedious *sigh". You see to get the official QR code you must use your South Korean SSN which as a foreigner we unfortunately don't have yet. To proceed you must make an appointment to receive an ARC (Alien Registration Card) at your closest local immigration office, and yes there are more specific documents you must bring with you to your appointment. *DISCLAIMER* Getting your ARC is paramount when arriving in South Korea. As a long term visitor you must register for your ARC within 90 days of your arrival regardless of your visa type or status as it is illegal and a good way to guarantee your stay in South Korea is very very short-lived. The entirety of your ARC process will take approximately 5-6 weeks until you receive your official hard copy. At this time you must once again re-visit your local health center where they will combine your Korean SSN with your COVID ID number and finally issue your personalized QR code. The good news is that while you are going through what is sure to be a tedious process you can use the hard copy paper you initially received from your health center as a substitute until you possess your QR code. An insider tip is that you can do the entirety of the ARC process either through your partner university or on your own accord. I CANNOT stress this enough but elect to do the process yourself as the ARC process through your partner university can take upwards of 8 weeks making an already tedious process significantly more hellish. All right now that we got the boring (but vitally important) stuff out of the way, lets get to what you are undoubtedly here for.

My first few days in Seoul I wanted to familiarize myself with the area I would call home for the next 4 months, the Hongdae and Sinchon area. Known as the "university district" famous for trendy cafes, cheap eats, street shopping and a vibrant nightlife scene, there was much for me to familiarize myself with. I figured the best way to start my Korea adventures would be to first have lunch at one of the restaurants on my bucket-list and to also experience a themed cafe I had my eyes on since quarantine all within walking distance from my apartment. Lunch was the first item on my checklist for the day and I settled on a specialty tonkatsu restaurant that I was put onto by my favorite travel food blogger Mikey Chen. Finally, my first Korean food experience had arrived and to say that I was dripping with anticipation was an understatement. All I've ever heard from people who have previously traveled to Korea was the unbeatable combination of the quality and affordability of food here and wow can I just say not a single word about that is embellished. For a mere 9,000 won which roughly equates to a little more than 7 USD I was able to get a combination tonkatsu set that included both premium loin cuts and also a cheese filled variety! As a self proclaimed foodie I would say that I have enjoyed quite a few tonkatsu experiences in my 22 years of life and I'm not gonna sit here and lie to you that it was the best best tonkatsu I've ever had but my god for 7 USD the ratio of price to quality is definitely hard to beat. The premium loin cuts were a little bit on the drier side than I usually prefer but the cheese filled pieces were absolutely heavenly. I am not sure why everyone here in Korea is so enamored with putting cheese on or in every food imaginable but hey sign me up for that wild ride! The combination of savory golden fried pork with the gooey cheese in the middle is a magical experience in both flavor and texture, and definitely left me immediately craving another bite. Finally, the cherry on top was definitely the homemade banana tonkatsu dipping sauce and the complimentary kimchee and pickled vegetables, both which were refillable to hearts content. For those of you who don't know me I am absolutely obsessed with all banana flavored items and the homemade sauce didn't disappoint. To this day I am not sure how or why banana's and fried pork went so well together but it did and in such a masterful way. Finally, I'll leave you with a pro-tip just between you and me, kimchee is served with every meal you'll enjoy here in Korea and it's not something to be slouched at. Every restaurant here makes their own kimchee with a different recipe and spice blend making each experience unique and delicious. Anytime your tastebuds are feeling a little overwhelmed with the same flavors or textures just have a little kimchee and the crisp crunch and gentle spices will be sure to refresh your palette and have you ready to enjoy more food! With a happy wallet and a full stomach it was time for the main attraction, a themed cat cafe which rescues abandoned cats and allows customers to play and interact with the many felines all while enjoying beverages in a very relaxing atmosphere. Admission to this cafe and the others like it is a mandatory one drink quota which is a very reasonable 4-5 USD. Also at the cafe you can purchase pastries, toys and cat treats all to make your experience more enjoyable. Armed with my americano in one hand and a few treats in another I was ready to make some new furry friends but there was definitely a lot of competition I would have to fight against as we were all vying for kitty attention. After a few unsuccessful attempts I was finally able to master the art of cat coaxing and I'll share my secret with you. First of all don't bother with any toys the only way to win the cat's attention is through either food or strategic positioning around the cafe. I set up on one of the floor tables as the heated floors and cushy pillows were a great attractor for kitties looking to cuddle and stay warm and toasty. My strategy was to first offer some treats while also presenting a comfortable looking lap which proved to be a winning combination attracting multiple cats looking for both a place to nap and gentle scratches and pets! :) There's definitely something therapeutic about having a kitty take a nap on you while you drink a cup of coffee, the pure serotonin is enough to take your mind off of any struggles going on in your life at the moment allowing you to escape into pure ecstasy and relaxation. With my happiness meter sufficiently recharged I bid a reluctant goodbye to my new cat friends and had a quick dinner before calling it curtains on my first "real" day here in Seoul, eagerly awaiting my next day of exploring!

On my second day feeling a little more confident I decided to meet with a friend and explore the historical Bukchon Hanok Village along with the surrounding Insa-dong area known for its trendy cafes and exceptional food spots beloved by both tourists and locals. Before I could enjoy any of the sights and foods I had to first manage navigating the subways here in Seoul, something I had never done before let alone all by my lonesome, so scary! As someone familiar with the intricacies of the Japanese subway system I was relieved to find similarities between the two, but it was nonetheless a nerve-wracking experience especially when you factor in the hustle and bussle of the many impatient South Koreans trying to navigate mid-morning traffic on a work day. My advice to all of you would be to do some research beforehand on the route you are taking to your destination lest you become overwhelmed and stressed out and to also be prepared for some pushing and shoving that are all social norms here. The cafe we decided on for the day was a cute poop themed cafe (yes you heard me correctly) known for its trendy interior/decor and specialty novelty drinks. I had an adorable mint-flavored latte served in a toilet bowl shaped cup and topped with latte art consisting of a smiling, winky faced poop emoticon, so cute haha I loved every part of it! In case you're unaware, cafe culture here in Korea is amazing and on a grander scale than anything you could ever imagine and man do the Korean's know how to do it right. With the wide array of themed cafes, amazing drinks and delectable food you are sure to find a spot here that suits your tastes and preferences. It's not an exaggeration to say that when you walk down the streets here in Seoul you will find at least 2 or 3 cafes all filled with different people enjoying the bliss that is cafe culture. Next it was time for some historical sightseeing of the famed Bukchon Hanok Village, one of the must see historical spots here in Seoul. Bukchon Hanok Village dates back to the Joseon Dynasty. The historic buildings here reflect the traditional architectural styles of the Joseon period which lasted from the late-14th century until 1897. It was amazing to see such a quiet unique pocket of history tucked into the fast paced city of Seoul. The combination of both rich history and technological and social innovation that Korea encompasses definitely has me in awe even to this day. After snapping some pics that will soon be seen on my Instagram (yes I am that person) it was time for a traditional bossam dinner at a beloved local eatery. Bossam is a pork dish usually consisting of pork shoulder that is boiled in spices and thinly sliced. The meat is served with side dishes such as spicy radish, sliced raw garlic, ssamjang, kimchi, and ssam (wrap) vegetables such as lettuce perilla leaves, and inner leaves of napa cabbage. To eat, the meat and side dishes are wrapped together in ssam vegetables, hence the literal meaning of bossam: "wrapped" or "packaged". As it was my first time enjoying a traditional Korean meal I was extremely excited since we have nothing of the sort back in Hawaii. The experience was nothing short of amazing, from the delicately boiled pork bursting with umami to the various side dishes bringing new waves of flavor and texture. I don't think I currently possess the vocabulary to explain to you the euphoria I felt but trust me when I tell you that eating a Korean meal prepared by an ajuma who's recipe's have been passed down from generation to generation and lovingly prepared in the most authentic way possible is truly special. The difference in tastes compared to any Korean meal I've ever had before was incomparable. In a way I was a little disappointed because the precedent this meal set for me seemed unfairly high as it would be the standard I measured all proceeding meals to. And with that, my first two days here in South Korea were complete and I couldn't think of a better way to start my study abroad experience. I got a little taste of everything Seoul has to offer and if this is the life in store for me for the next 4 months I can't wait to get the Korea edition of my life started! Up next for me is a ski trip with friends and my first day of university here at Yonsei! Signing off for now but see you soon! :)

<3

Derren